[Abstract] :
Abrasion fastness Abrasion fastness refers to the ability to resist wear friction, which contributes to the durability of the fabric. Clothing made of fibers with high breaking strength and good resistance to wear will last a long time and will show signs of wear and tear after a long time. Nylon is widely used in sports jackets, such as ski jackets and football shirts. This is because of its strength and fastness to wear. Acetate fiber is often used for lining coats and jackets because of its excellent drape and low cost. However, due to the poor wear resistance of acetate fiber, the lining is easy to wear or form holes before the corresponding wear of the outer fabric of the jacket.
Fastness to wear
Fastness to wear refers to the ability to resist wear friction, which contributes to the durability of the fabric. Clothing made of fibers with high breaking strength and good resistance to wear will last a long time and will show signs of wear and tear after a long time.
Nylon is widely used in sports jackets, such as ski jackets and football shirts. This is because of its strength and fastness to wear. Acetate fiber is often used for lining coats and jackets because of its excellent drape and low cost. However, due to the poor wear resistance of acetate fiber, the lining is easy to wear or form holes before the corresponding wear of the outer fabric of the jacket.
Two water imbibition
Hydroscopicity is the ability to absorb moisture, which is usually expressed by moisture regain. Absorbability of fibers is the percentage of moisture absorbed by dried fibers from air at standard temperatures of 70 ° F (21 ° C) and relative humidity of 65%.
Fibers that absorb water easily are called hydrophilic fibers. All natural animal and plant fibers and two man-made fibers, viscose and acetate, are hydrophilic fibers. Fibers that have difficulty absorbing water or that absorb only a small amount of water are called hydrophobic fibers. All man-made fibers are hydrophobic except viscose, Lyocell, and acetate. Fiberglass does not absorb water at all, and other fibers typically have a moisture regain of 4% or less.
The hydroscopicity of the fiber affects many aspects of its application, including:
● Skin comfort: Due to poor water absorption, sweat flow will cause cold and wet feeling.
● Electrostatic: Problems such as adhesion and sparks can occur with hydrophobic fibers, because there is little moisture to help disperse charged particles accumulated on the surface of the fibers, and dust is also brought to the fibers by static electricity and sticks to them.
● Dimensional stability after washing: after washing, hydrophobic fibers shrink less than hydrophilic fibers, fibers rarely expand, which is one of the reasons for fabric shrinkage.
● Stain removal: It is easy to remove stains from hydrophilic fibers because the fibers suck in the detergent and water at the same time.
● Water repellent: Hydrophilic fibers usually undergo more water repellent and durable post-treatment because this chemical treatment can make these fibers more water repellent.
● Fold recovery: Hydrophobic fibers usually have good fold recovery, especially after washing and ironing, because they do not absorb water, do not expand, and dry in a fold state.
Trichemical action
In textile processing (e.g., dyeing, finishing) and home/professional care or cleaning (e.g., soap, bleach, dry cleaning solvents, etc.), fibers are generally exposed to chemicals. The type of chemical, the intensity of action and the duration of action determine the degree of influence on the fiber. It is important to understand the effects of chemicals on different fibers as it is directly related to the care required in cleaning.
Fibers react differently to chemicals. Cotton fibers, for example, are relatively acid-resistant and alkaline resistant. In addition, cotton fabrics can lose a little strength after chemical resin finish.
Four coverage
Coverage is the ability to fill a range. Coarse or curly fibers have better coverage than those made of fine or straight fibers. Its fabric is warm, feel plump, and need less fiber to be able to weave only.
Wool is a widely used fiber in winter clothing because its crimp gives the fabric excellent coverage and creates a large amount of still air in the fabric, which is relatively insulated from the cold air outside. The effectiveness of fiber coverage depends on its sectional shape, longitudinal structure and weight.
Five elastic
Elasticity refers to the ability to return to the rock state (recovery) after increasing length (lengthening) and releasing external forces under tension. Elongation when applied to fibers or fabric makes the garment feel more comfortable and causes less seam stress. There is also a tendency to increase the fracture strength. Complete recovery helps create draping at the elbow or knee, preventing the garment from sagging.
Fibers that extend at least 100 percent are called elastic fibers. Spandex (also known as lycra in China) and rubber fibers fall into this category. When stretched, these elastic fibers return to almost their original length with force.
Vi Environmental Conditions
Environmental conditions have different effects on fibers. How fibers and fabrics react to exposure, storage, etc., is very important.
Here are some examples:
● Woolen garments need to be moth-proof when stored as they are susceptible to being eaten by woolen borers.
● Nylon and silk lose strength when exposed to sunlight, so they are not usually used to make curtains and doors and Windows.
● Cotton fiber is easily moldy, so it cannot be stored in a humid environment for a long time.
Seven flammability
Flammability refers to an object's ability to ignite or burn. This is an important feature because people's lives are always surrounded by a variety of textiles. We know that clothing or interior furniture, due to its flammability, can cause serious injury and material damage to consumers.
Fibers are usually classified as flammable, non-flammable, and flame retardant:
● Flammable fibers are those that are easily ignited and will continue to burn.
● Non-flammable fiber refers to a relatively high combustion point, combustion speed is relatively slow, in the withdrawal of combustion source will be self-extinguishing fiber.
● Flame retardant fiber refers to the fiber will not be burned.
Inflammable fiber can be made into flame retardant fiber by finishing or changing fiber parameters. Conventional polyester, for example, is flammable, but Trevira polyester is treated to make it flame retardant.
Eight softness
Softness refers to the ability of a fiber to be easily and repeatedly bent without breaking. Soft fibers such as acetate support drape fabrics and garments. Rigid fibers, such as glass fibers, cannot be used for clothing, but can be used for decorative fabrics that need to be relatively stiff. Generally, the finer the fiber, the better the drape. Softness also affects the feel of the fabric.
Although draping is often required, stiffer fabrics are sometimes required. For example, on a garment with a cape (the garment hangs over the shoulders and turns out), stiffer fabric is used to achieve the desired shape.
Nine feel
Hand feel refers to the sensation of touching a fiber, yarn, or fabric. The hand of the fiber senses the influence of its shape, surface characteristics, and structure. Fiber morphology is different, can be round, flat, leafy and so on. Fiber surfaces may vary, such as smooth, serrated, or scaly. Fibers are either curly or straight in shape. Yarn type, fabric structure and finishing process also affect the feel of the fabric. The terms soft, smooth, dry, silky, stiff, coarse or rough are often used to describe the feel of fabrics.
Ten luster
Gloss is the reflection of light from the surface of the fiber. The different properties of the fiber affect its gloss. A shiny surface, less bending, flat sectional shape, and longer fiber length enhance light reflection. The drawing process in fiber manufacturing increases gloss by making the surface smoother. The addition of dimming agent will destroy the reflection of light and make the luster decrease. In this way, the amount of extinction agent can be controlled to produce optical fiber, optical fiber and matt fiber.
Fabric gloss is also influenced by yarn type, texture and all finishing. Gloss requirements will depend on fashion trends and customer needs.
11 the ball
Pilling refers to the intertwining of small balls of short, broken fibers on the surface of a fabric. Pompoms form when the ends of the fibers break off the surface of the fabric, usually caused by wearing. Pilling is not desirable because it makes fabrics such as sheets old, unsightly and uncomfortable. Pompoms are produced in areas of frequent friction, such as collars, under sleeves, and cuff edges.
Hydrophobic fibers are more likely to pilling than hydrophilic fibers because they attract static electricity to each other and are less likely to fall off the fabric surface. Pompoms are rarely seen on 100% cotton shirts, but are very common on similar polyester-cotton blended shirts worn for some time. Although wool is hydrophilic, pompoms are produced by its scaly surface. The fibers twist and intertwine to form a pompous ball. Strong fibers tend to hold the pompoms on the fabric surface. A low-strength fiber that breaks easily and is less likely to pilling because the pompoms fall off easily.
Xii Resilience
Resilience refers to the ability of a material to recover elasticity after being folded, twisted or twisted. It is closely related to fold recovery ability. Fabrics with good resilience do not wrinkle easily and, therefore, are easy to maintain a good shape.
A coarser fibre has better resilience because it has more mass to absorb strain. At the same time, the shape of the fiber also affects the resilience of the fiber, and the circular fiber has better resilience than the flat fiber.
The nature of the fibers is also a factor. Polyester fiber has excellent resilience, but cotton fiber has poor resilience. It is not surprising, then, that these two fibers are often mixed in products such as men's shirts, women's blouses and bed sheets.
Good fibers can be a bit of a hassle if they need to form noticeable wrinkles in the garment. It is easy to create creases on cotton or coarse gum fabrics, but not on dry wool fabrics. Wool fibers are resistant to bending and folding, and can be straightened at the end.
Xiii Relative density
The relative density is the ratio of the fiber mass to the water mass of the same volume at 4℃. Light fibers keep the fabric warm without being bulky and may result in a thick, fluffy fabric but still maintain a lighter weight. Acrylonitrile fiber is a good example. It is much lighter than wool but has similar properties to wool, making it widely used to make light and warm blankets, scarves, thick socks and other winter goods.
Fourteen electrostatic
Static electricity is an electric charge generated when two different materials rub against each other. When an electric charge is generated and accumulated on the surface of the fabric, the garment will stick to the wearer or the lint will stick to the fabric. When the fabric surface comes into contact with a foreign body, it produces an electric spark or shock, a rapid discharge process. When the static electricity on the fiber surface is generated at the same rate of static transfer, the static electricity phenomenon can be eliminated.
The water contained in the fibers acts as a conductor, eliminating electrical charges and preventing the electrostatic effects mentioned earlier. Hydrophobic fibers, because they contain very little water, tend to generate static electricity. Static electricity is also produced in natural fibers, but only becomes hydrophobic when it is very dry. Glass fibers are the exception to hydrophobic fibers because, because of their chemical composition, resting charges cannot be generated on their surfaces.
Fabrics containing Ebitrobic fibers (fibers that conduct electricity) have no trouble with static electricity, and the carbon or metal they contain allows the fibers to transfer accumulated static charges. Because there is often static electricity problem on the carpet, the carpet is used such as Monsanto Ultron nylon. Trobik eliminates electric shocks, fabric bonding and dust absorption. Because of the danger of static electricity in special working environment, it is very important to make subway with low static electricity fiber in the area near hospital and computer, which is near flammable and explosive liquid or gas.
The intensity of 15
Strength is the ability of a fiber to resist stress. Fiber strength is the force required to break a fiber, expressed in grams per denier or centibeef per Tex.
Xvi thermoplasticity
The heat resistance of fiber is an important factor affecting its application performance. In general, this is also an important consideration in fiber treatment, as fibers need to be heated during many fabric forming processes, such as dyeing, pressing, and heat setting. In addition, heating is often used to care for and update clothing and interior furniture.
Some thermal effects are only temporary and obvious in the course of action. In dyeing, for example, the properties of fibers may change during thermal action, but return to normal upon cooling. But some of the thermal effects can be long-lasting, resulting in degradation of the fibers themselves due to molecular rearrangement after thermal action. Heat setting, on the other hand, alters the molecular alignment, making the fabric more stable (with less shrinkage) and more wrinkle resistant, but without significant degradation. However, prolonged exposure to high temperatures may cause degradation, such as loss of strength, fiber shrinkage, and discoloration. Many consumers have experienced severe degradation or even damage to clothing caused by ironing at too high a temperature.
When heated, the thermoplastic fibers soften and melt into liquid form at higher temperatures. Many man-made fibers are thermoplastic. By heating a fabric containing thermoplastic fibers to form creases and folds without melting the fibers, permanent creases and folds can be made when the temperature drops. When heated (softened), thermoplastic fibres can be moulded into shape, and when cooled, the moulded shape is retained (Care must be taken when ironing garments made of rayon fibres so as not to soften or melt. When softened or melted, the fabric will begin to stick to the iron), and the creases will last until higher temperatures eliminate the original heat setting effect. Garment shapes can also be formed in this way, and thermoplastic fabrics have good dimensional stability.
Seventeen core suction
Core-sucking is the ability of a fiber to transfer water from one place to another. Normally, water travels along the surface of the fiber, but liquids can also pass through the fiber as they are absorbed by it. The core suction tendency of fibers often depends on the chemical and physical composition of the outer surface. A smooth surface will reduce core suction.